Miles 387-459 on the Arizona Trail

Phoenix to Pine

My time in Phoenix sadly had to come to an end. As much as I wanted to stay for another day, my goal was to hike the trail so I should probably get back to doing that. Carrie dropped me off by 0815 where she and Steve picked me up three days before. We said our goodbyes and I hiked on. I somewhat regretted not sticking around another day. I wasn’t super motivated. The hiking wasn’t too bad. I had a long steady climb up to 7,000’ ahead which would take the whole day. Not too long into walking, I chatted with a guy headed south doing a section hike. He asked me about a water source and I said it was good three days before and told him to contact MJ. He wanted a shower and laundry before flying home. I didn’t see anyone else and stopped for lunch by a pool of water. As usual, my lunch break was relaxed. Since my lunch consisted of a walking tamale, an apple, and an excessive amount of chocolate chip cookies (thanks Steve!), I had even more time for reading. I didn’t need to cook anything. After lunch, climbing resumed. Up and up and up. I tried to take a picture of a spider in its tunnel web but it’s hard to make out. I also passed a gopher snake just hanging out in the middle of the trail. 

Close to the end of my hiking day, around 1730, I came across an AZT sign that read 403 miles to Mexico, 396 to Utah. As usual and to no one’s surprise I’m sure, I missed the 400 mile marker. I often miss mile markers. I sent a message to my husband and mapshare that I passed 400. 

While I was walking and on my phone I saw someone waving out of the corner of my eye. Someone already set up to camp for the night. I was a little embarrassed to be caught just walking and on my phone that I didn’t stop and chat like I may have normally. I just powered up the rest of the climb. Since I was switchbacking up the side of a mountain, my camping options were nil. I had to get to where the trail finally flattened out. I eventually did around 1830. I found a flat enough spot that didn’t look like I’d have a tree fall on me. I set up my tent with some difficulty. My tent pole stake kept popping out of the loose ground. Eventually I got it and was in my tent for the evening.

After a dinner of ramen with sugar snap peas and jalapeño, I laid down to read. While reading I saw a giant fuzzy on my big mesh. I almost absentmindedly brushed it off but instead turned to look. It was a rather large spider crawling around, about 2.5” diameter and not all legs. Looked wolf spider esq. Glad I set up my tent again.

The next morning was beautiful and started out pretty chilly. I tried to enjoy the cold after so much heat. The trail was surrounded with lots of flowers and the views were beautiful.

I took a break around 0900 after walking a half mile round trip to get water from a spring. I sat and read while I let the water gravity filter.

The hiking continued to be lovely until my lunch break around 1130. I sat next to a pool of water in the sun. The day was still cool so it was comfortable laying there.

The afternoon of hiking was more focused. Just content to keep walking. Though at one point I completely missed my turn and headed down the wrong trail to water pools. I didn’t need water and it took me a couple minutes to figure out my mistake. I quickly found my turn that was incredibly obvious and continued on. I did eventually need to reach water before I could camp, but I still had a bit to go. I was getting tired and sore by the time I did reach it. I was ready to be done for the day. I didn’t know if I’d find camping soon after, but I was in luck. I found a spot. It was tucked between some trees. No view but I was too tired to appreciate a view anyway. My tent went up and I went in.

The next morning my alarm went off at 5 like usual. I had 30 miles to town and would be there the morning the next day. Since I only really needed to do maybe 20 miles, I said screw it and went back to sleep. I woke up a little before 6 and just laid around and read. I wasn’t pressed for time and I didn’t want to get out yet. The day before was cool so today may be as well. That’s the main reason for waking up so early, to get as many miles in as possible before it’s so hot. Morning miles are always easier. I eventually left camp a little before 7. I didn’t have far before my first stop at a spring. I reached it around 0815 and walked off trail to get water. After a snack, I actively filtered water since I slept in. I didn’t need a break already and still wanted to do around 20 miles total. This day and the one before had lots of views of the Mogollon Rim I’d eventually climb up. It looks like a wall across the horizon.

I stopped for water again a couple hours later at an inlet to the East Verde River. I pulled out a tamale to eat while I walked. I wasn’t ready for a long break yet. More wildflowers dotted the trail and the terrain turned to lava rock.

The afternoon was all climbing. Some short and steep, but mostly a long gradual ascent. I had my husband call the hotel to get me a room. I had less service on this stretch than any other and couldn’t call myself. Since I’d get there on a Saturday, it could fill up fast. He booked me the last room. I took a long break shortly after one of the many false summits. I ate my second tamale and read. My feet were getting tired and the trail was pretty rocky. Time to rest. I started up again a little before 1500. Not much more to go. I didn’t mind the hiking. The rocks weren’t always fun or comfortable, but my leisurely day was quite enjoyable. Eventually I came across a good looking camp spot. It was only 1735, but I only had 10 miles to town. I could be there by 1000. May as well stop and enjoy my evening while I had a good spot. I had my tent up and was in before 1800. So much time to relax. Maybe I should do short days more often. 

The next morning I did get up when my alarm went off. I didn’t have an excuse since I went to bed early. Plus, it was town day. I had a long drop followed by a short climb. It went pretty quickly. I listened to a book while I hiked. 

When I got closer to town, I called my husband and talked to him while I walked the mile in. The place I was staying was on the far side and ended up being closer to 2 miles of walking extra, but my room was ready when I got there at 1030 and I could go in. I had a suite with a jacuzzi tub. The first thing I wanted though was food. Laundry was near the restaurant, so I shoved my dirty clothes in a grocery bag and went to breakfast. I got a massive meal called the big bird breakfast. 3 eggs, 2 sausages, home fries, biscuit and gravy, and a large pancake. I ate a large portion of it but still needed to take the rest to go. Breakfast for the next day. 

I went to the laundromat next. Inside I changed into my wind pants and puffy jacket. Every other piece of clothing went into the machine. I found out later one sock managed to evade the machine, but I hand washed it in the room. While my clothes were washing, I went across the street to buy my resupply. Not a huge selection at that store. I went with bean and cheese burritos for lunches and ramen bombs (ramen and instant mashed potatoes mixed together) for dinner.

Back at the laundromat, I had to wait a little longer for the wash to finish. I deleted emails and scrolled on my phone until it was time to dry it. Luckily none of my clothes take all that long to dry so I didn’t need to wait the full 30 minutes. Clean clothes and groceries in hand, I went back to my room for a shower. It felt like a productive couple hours. I had nothing else pressing to do so I laid in bed and read. I decided to head out around 1500 since a lot of shops close at 1600. I wandered the town and all the stores. It took less than an hour. I stopped at the pizza place to get a pizza to go. I was being completely ignored by everyone working there so I gave up and went to an ice cream stand instead. They also happened to have nachos so I got those to go.

I ate my ice cream as I walked back and in the room I decided to try out the jacuzzi tub. It was nice. Soaking while reading. The rest of the evening was spent eating nachos, reading, and relaxing.

The next morning I laid in bed as long as I could before I had to check out. Once I was I packed up and left, I went to the coffee shop for a mocha. I sat and chatted with two locals for a long while before I decided I should get moving. I was starting to get hungry again so I decided to give the pizza place another try. I got there before the biggest rush, but still had to wait 10 or so minutes for a table. I put in my order as soon as I was seated. It took forever for the food to come out. Luckily I wasn’t in a rush and just sat there and read while I waited. I did get my pizza and it was delicious. If I wasn’t looking for excuses to slow down, I would have been annoyed at how long it took, but I had no where to be.

After lunch, I finally headed up the highway to the trail and was back to hiking by 1300.