Miles 697-800 on the Arizona Trail

Grand Canyon South Rim to Utah border

Part 2 of 2

Sadly my hike is over, 800 miles on the Arizona trail plus a few side trips. I’m happy to be home, but already missing the trail. There was so much beauty in the desert, pine forests, and Grand Canyon. Some of the hike was painful, parts were hot, other times were freezing, but I’m glad for all of it. 

I was awake at the usual 0530 ish but didn’t get up. My tent was covered in ice and I did not want to go out in the cold. At 0615 I heard someone walking. I peeked out and it was Little G with Everlong not far behind. That’s my sign up get out of bed I guess. I packed up and was on trail around 0645. I made good time in the seemingly flat terrain. There were small climbs here and there and I could feel the climb from the day before on the first couple uphills.

The burn scar continued off and on all day.

The trail took me along the edge of the plateau where I could see a piece of the Grand Canyon in the pollution hazed distance.

There was also a neat effect that was a sort of rainbow? arching over a tree top. It was oddly easier to see with the eye than in the camera. It didn’t stop me from trying to get a photo.

I figured I’d catch up to Little G, but didn’t. I stopped for a lunch break at 1230 where I pulled out all my gear to dry. During my break, Smitty walked by. Shortly after, Little G did too. Apparently I had passed her. I packed up my gear and headed to the next water source where they were both planning to stop. We sat together for a short bit and was also joined by Deals. The water was straight mud. It was only 8 more miles to the next source though. I’d make it fine, but Little G had too much so I got some extra and didn’t need to worry. Deals and Smitty headed to the road and Little G and I continued on the trail.

I pulled ahead again, but she didn’t get too far behind. We hit a trailhead where there was a water cache with water. I was good and would fill up at the wildlife tank a few miles up. There were a few hikers hanging around and a person out there supporting his wife’s hike who had extra snacks for everyone. So kind. Little G and I headed out to the water. I planned to possibly camp nearby, but would reassess when I got there. Little G had a similar plan. The afternoon got very windy. It was howling and chilly. We walked very quickly along the exposed ridge, though I stopped long enough to look at the piles of worms in the silk bags on the trees. 

At the wildlife waterer, we filled up and decided to keep hiking. The wind was too much and too cold to stop for the night in this area. We only needed 4 more miles to have a 30 mile day. Little G had never done a 30, and since I was killing time most of the hike, I hadn’t done one yet this trip. We decided to go for it. The guys caught up and planned to stop at the next trailhead that also had a pit toilet. That ended up being pretty fortunate for them. Little G and I hiked together until we hit 30 trail miles exactly for me, 30.5 ish for her. Luckily it happened to be at a good spot that was flat and didn’t have dead trees because the wind only got worse. Definitely gale warning level. We got our tents up right on time. It started to sprinkle as we quickly got in. 

Through the night the wind howled, rain poured, and eventually snow fell. I woke up to a mass of ice on my tent and a heavy dusting of snow on the ground. It was so cold that morning.

Luckily we didn’t have far to go. I also convinced Little G to go to Jacob’s Lake with me. They have a cafe, cookies, and a small shop. It didn’t take much to convince her. We hiked out wearing a bunch of layers. I should have put my puffy on because I was still cold while we hiked at a 3.5mph pace to keep warm.

The turn off for town was close though and we began our trek off the red line. I picked out a little route using roads and side trails and a different navigation app to cut off the distance. We didn’t use the path on FarOut which was a whole mile longer each way. No idea how they choose what to make the blue lines to towns. Our path is the purple highlight.

Our hike to town went perfectly and included a tiny bushwhack that dumped us exactly at the road sign for Jacob’s Lake. Soon we were at the cafe!

Breakfast time! We both got the pancake meal and a hot drink. Smitty and Deals were already there and just got their food. We talked briefly about their night sleeping in the privy to avoid the snow and wind before we also got food and dove in to eat.

Post breakfast, we checked out the Kaibab Plateau visitor center which had a bunch of hummingbirds at the feeder.

We looked at the displays and bought AZT stickers.

Back at the cafe it was cookie time. We all bought 4 cookies. I got gingersnap, s’mores, chocolate cloud, and German chocolate. I also grabbed an Arizona ice tea for later. Little G and I stayed for round two (lunch) while the guys headed out to try and find their other two people. They mentioned where they planned to camp, but it was a bit beyond where we planned. We walked the road back to the red line.

We lost each other again back on trail. The hike continued off and on through burn areas, but life was starting up again in the form of some flowers.

I took a cookie break a little before 1700 and rested for a half hour.

Shortly after my break I came upon a sinkhole. While reading the informational sign about how it was a slow forming hole from acid rain slowly eating away the limestone, Little G showed up.

We continued on together yet separately for the next half hour until stopping to camp together. It was our last night on trail. We ate together before retiring to our tents. What a great day.

The next morning was also pretty chilly, but with no wind. I didn’t linger in camp as long as usual. It was terminus day! I only read for 30 minutes before packing up and heading out at 0615. I said a quick goodbye to Little G. I figured I’d see her again at the terminus. The plants were covered in a layer of frost as I walked through them.

The hiking was super fast. I took a picture at the trailhead where the others were camped. I didn’t even notice them, I was so engrossed in the podcast I was listening to.

Deals passed me a little later and that’s when I realized I passed them. I assumed they would be almost to the end at that point, but they were enjoying their last morning together. Not long after, Icy and Rabbit also passed by. Then Smitty a bit after that. We walked together for a very brief time before he turned off for the last water source. It was only 4 miles to the end and I had 200 ml left. Good enough. It was also cold still and I drank my AZ ice tea that morning too. I took one last picture of a very small cactus.

I pushed on to try to get to the terminus before the others to have a moment to myself. I jogged down the many switchbacks on the final descent.

Not even a quarter mile from the end, I tried to blow a snot rocket. If you remember the last time I specifically mentioned snot rockets, you can probably guess where this is headed. I blew hard multiple times until my nose started feeling way too wet. That wasn’t right. I touched it and my fingers were covered in blood. It steadily dripped on the ground while I rummaged in my pouch for a tissue. I didn’t have any this time. My gloves would be retiring from service after this hike, so I quickly pulled one off and shoved it against my nose to stopper the flow. This time, I wasn’t as clean. I had some drips of blood on my pouch and phone lanyard and a fine spray on the sleeve of my shirt. I finished my hike with my glove against my face at 1105.

My dad was waiting for me at the terminus. It was really great he could make the trip over to pick me up. It had been a while since I had seen him. Luckily the nose bleed didn’t last as long as the time before and I got a bunch of photos with the monument.

I hung around waiting for the others to finish. I really wanted to see Little G again and give her a hug. I had a great time the last couple days hiking with her. I signed the resigter after washing the blood off my hands with a wet wipe. I used my pen since it seemed rude to possibly get a bio hazardous material on public stuff.

Smitty, Deals, Icy, and Rabbit came in about 20 minutes later to me cheering and my dad giving them all high fives. They took a bunch of photos too. When my dad and his wife, Lesa,  found out they were headed to St. George, they were invited along on the ride out. We were headed that way too. They didn’t want to hold us up, but I was good with them taking their time. I wanted to stall a good bit. Smitty went up trail with his drone to see if he could find Little G, but didn’t see her. Since the trail is visible for a long ways out, it meant maybe another hour before she would finish. So we called it and packed into the SUV. Smitty was headed the opposite way to Page and started walking while we were getting in. He didn’t get far before Lesa stopped the car. She didn’t want him to walk out that long ways. It was a 30 minute drive on a dirt road out of there. We loaded him up as well. 

At the main road, she decided he shouldn’t need to hitch hike either and we made the 30 minute drive in the opposite direction to Page to drop him off. It was super kind of her to decide to do that. Really saved him time and effort. Eventually we arrived and stopped at a Subway for a last meal together. I ate with my dad and Lesa and they enjoyed their last meal as a little trail family. Soon we were saying goodbye to Smitty and were on our way to St. George. We made a few stops along the way for bathrooms and one at a playground for a leg stretch and to see this cool slide. It was big, old, and went down the hill a good ways. It was a lot of fun. Most of us went down it.

Eventually, we reached St. George and dropped off the others leaving just my dad, Lesa, me, and Odie the dog.

The rest of my time in Utah was spent visiting with my dad. We went to see petroglyphs, eat at one of their favorite diners, and wander St. George downtown before I was on a bus to Vegas and then on a plane back to the east coast and home.

My hiking trip is officially over. It was such a great experience to be be able to see so much of what Arizona has to offer. I’m incredibly fortunate (physically, monetarily, time wise) to be able to do trips like this. I wish more people could spend time enjoying what our public lands have to offer before they’re gone. They are full of beauty, so many plants and animals I don’t get to see outside of those spaces. I can’t wait to see what will be next. My hiking and adventure plans are always evolving. 

Thank you for sticking with me on this journey and I hope you check back periodically to see what’s next.